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Thread: lost boost:(

  1. #1
    Inactive Member solRNY's Avatar
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    hi,

    i just recently completed a JRSC in my 94 honda delsol b16a3, i have serveral problems but first of all i am not getting any boost like i was getting. i have not done anything since the completion of the install 3days ago. the problem is that my car is actually slower with the SC than without it, when i go to mash the pedal to WOT the RMP shoots up and i can hear tons of exhuast but the car really does not move! during this moment it seems like the car has tons of potiental to be fast but it just wont go faster [img]frown.gif[/img]

    have you ever ran ur car into vtec range when its not yet warmed up, when the vtec wont kick in? that is wha it feels and sounds like at WOT right now. i installed the JR 160 degree F thermosate and i notice that the temp gauge within the dash is a much lower now, i read somewhere that there is a chance the vtec wont kick in if the temp is lower than 160degree F,

    any advice is appreicated, thanks

  2. #2
    Inactive Member JT98CivicEX's Avatar
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    You are saying the rpm would go up but the car won't go? Is it possible that the additional power and torque from the JRSC insall is causing your clutch to slip?

  3. #3
    Senior Hostboard Member CROM's Avatar
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    From what I remember, VTEC will not come on until a proper oil pressure is achieved, not engine temperature...

    Things to check:

    - Check your bypass valve, it may be jammed open for some stupid reason, they have been known to fail.
    - Check your belt tension, they could be loosened a lot. If your blower belt to the alternator is fine, then its likely to be the bypass valve.
    - Even with the loudest fart can exhaust you can still hear the blower winding up.
    - Fuel Pressure
    - Fuel Lines
    - Make sure the FMU is properly installed and the lines are properly hooked up (IN/Out Lines)

    - Clutch could be slipping, but you would still be getting some boost anyway.

    So, 3 days ago the car was boosting? Did you buy this kit used? Did you follow the directions? Did you install it yourself?

    Do you have a boost gauge in the car?

    <font color="#a62a2a" size="1">[ April 21, 2003 11:56 PM: Message edited by: CROM ]</font>

  4. #4
    Inactive Member CivicR's Avatar
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    CROM....The car has to up to operating temp before the ECU will allow engagement of VTEC...my car when its cold outside it will take forever to reach that 1/3 mark on the temp guage...until then the car falls on its face when going above where you would engage VTEC

    solRNY....do you have a boost guage??..what is it reading??...and also did you install the JR thermostat after you did the original install of the charger??...is it cool or cold where you live right now?

  5. #5
    Inactive Member i2un's Avatar
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    Did you actually have a boost gauge variance? Like 6psi kit only boosting 3psi. Or does it just feel slow?

    If it just feels slow I'd guess fuel. Do you have the upgrade intank fuel pump?

  6. #6
    Inactive Member solRNY's Avatar
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    Ok here are some things to look at....
    1. Base timing: What is your timing set at on your distributor?

    *after the install, we turned on the car, let her warm up and set the timing to 10degree before TDC

    2. Fuel Pressure: You need to get a fuel pressure guage and use the FMU (the silver space ship) and set your static fuel pressure accordingly to how much boost you're running (6psi).

    *i will have to get one of those, what should the idle fuel pressure and peak boost fuel pressure should be at? if i am running to rich would it describe the lost in power?

    3. Fuel itself: What grade of fuel are you using and what brand? e.g. Chevron, Amoco 92-93 octane???

    *i always use the highest octan -93

    4. Belt tension: Belt deflection should be about 1/4 of an inch in both directions, having the belt to tight will eventually damage the bearings inside the blower.

    *well, the belt on the charger is pretty tight, its hard to measure the delfection of that belt becuase on one side you have the pulley which means the distance between that pulley and the charger pulley is not as long as the distance between the charger pulley back to the alternator pulley- the delflection is close to 1/4in in that case.

    5. Spark plugs: Are you using spark plugs, which are one step colder than your stock ones? e.g. I use ZEX Nitrous plugs in my setup.

    *i just changed out my iridiums with those i purchased from JR, in either case they are colder.

  7. #7
    Senior Hostboard Member CROM's Avatar
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    Did you change anything in the past 3 days?

    The FMU is the big silver-round thing that came with your kit that has an allen bolt in the top of it and two hose barbs coming out of the bottom of it.

    If you dont have that hooked up, then things wont be working correctly.

    Does your car studder when you get to a certain RPM range? Does it rev up ok to a certain point then feel like you are not gaining any more power? If your fuel deliver is all hosed up, then you will get a lag in power and some serious detonation.

    Also, 10BTDC is pretty low, I dont even think JR recommends that low, with the map mod you will be safe with 12, I was at the stock 16BTDC before I went higher boost.

    <font color="#a62a2a" size="1">[ April 22, 2003 02:35 PM: Message edited by: CROM ]</font>

  8. #8
    Inactive Member 217gsr's Avatar
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    Longshot. . . but have you checked your compression lately?

  9. #9
    Inactive Member solRNY's Avatar
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    CROM:

    Did you change anything in the past 3 days?

    *well, when i discover this problem i changed out my spark plug with those that i got from JR.

    The FMU is the big silver-round thing that came with your kit that has an allen bolt in the top of it and two hose barbs coming out of the bottom of it.
    If you dont have that hooked up, then things wont be working correctly.

    *that is diffinitly installed

    Does your car studder when you get to a certain RPM range?

    *no, it does not studder, but i do notice that when i let go of the pedal i get a small jolt, like boost


    Does it rev up ok to a certain point then feel like you are not gaining any more power?

    *oh yeah, that is what i feel. i feel that at high RPM greater than say 5K all i hear is whooossshhh, engin revs very high, but no power, some say that might be my clutch, but i am not sure, my clutch was not that great before but it never slipped. it was fine, engine and all, when we completed the install, i felt tons of boost.

    If your fuel deliver is all hosed up, then you will get a lag in power and some serious detonation.

    *i dont think i am getting any detonation, maybe i just cant tell. i have to get a fuel pressure gauge to diganose the fuel part of this.

    Also, 10BTDC is pretty low, I dont even think JR recommends that low, with the map mod you will be safe with 12, I was at the stock 16BTDC before I went higher boost.

    *yes, i believe with the map mod i can do 12 before TDC, but i dont think it will explain how i all the sudden lost boost.

    217gsr :
    Longshot. . . but have you checked your compression lately?

    *i have never did a compression test, but i am willing to try anything to have boost again :0

    you think it can be my clutch? it was not perfect before but it never slipped. i could not see how it was working the first day we took the car for a spin and now it has problems. but somehow it does make some sense, that when i engage the clutch at low rpm it will zip along, but once it hit about 5K rmp i lose power.

    how do i diagnose my clutch?

    thanks for all the help!

  10. #10
    Inactive Member CivicR's Avatar
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    Question

    Just to clarify something...did the car ever run good with the charger??...or did it feel like no boost right after you installed it??...from you post I got the impression that it ran right at first, but then 3 days later it started to do the no boost feeling issue??

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